The Locking Quickdraw

The draw is made of a nylon dog-bone with a HMS carabiner on one end and and lighter locking carabiner on the other end.

The draw is made of a nylon dog-bone with a HMS carabiner on one end and and lighter locking carabiner on the other end.

After seeing several guides in the Tetons this summer using a locking quickdraw in various applications, I started testing it out for myself and have made a video showing its utility. I have found it to be not only extremely useful, but also a huge time-saver in several situations. For example, there are times when I prefer to extend the master point of my anchor to achieve some separation between the munter hitch I am belaying from and the clove hitch I am tied in with. Similarly, when I am doing a belayed rappel, I find it useful to have the rappel carabiner on a different master point than the belay biner to prevent the two from binding up against each other. While there are several methods of achieving this, I have found the locking carabiner to be the best in terms of versatility, ease of use, and efficiency.
One important note is that I am using the locking quickdraw in situations where I can either easily monitor it for abrasion or wear since it isn’t truly redundant by itself or where it IS in fact redundant, as it is in the case of using it in a toprope anchor.