It takes 20 years...

Last week a hunting dog spent three days on a ledge on Ramsey Cliff, outside Franklin. It’s bear season, and somewhere in the chase he’d ended up about 200 feet up a rock face his owner couldn’t reach. Other groups had tried to get to him. None could.

The owner walked three of us from Pisgah Climbing School in from the end of a 4x4 trail, along with a local who knew the way and had tried to reach the dog the day before. We hiked in and scrambled about a hundred feet of steep ground. By then it was already dark. I racked up and led two pitches of technical rock on cams in the dark to reach the ledge. Three tandem rappels later he was on the ground, unhurt, and walked out on his own feet to the owner waiting at the bottom. The Charlotte Observer covered the rescue.

I’ve done well over ten dog rescues in twenty years. That was the most technical one. But it isn’t the call I keep thinking about this week.

“Getting ready to lower him off Ramsey Cliff. Three tandem rappels in the dark, and he walked out unhurt.”

The call I wasn’t on

While I was away at the Arc’teryx Pro Summit, my phone rang. A team had gone out on a mutual aid call, and when they got to the trail, they split into two parties. The first group ran. The second group jogged. When they realized they needed more gear, two rescuers ran back to command and then ran back to the patient again. Nobody told them to move like that. Nobody wrote anybody up afterward. It was just how you do it.

Five years ago that wouldn’t have happened. Ten years ago, I was the guy getting called crazy for doing exactly that. I was climbing professionally back then and training like it, so covering ground efficiently in the mountains was normal for me. My comfortable pace is a run, and I can hold it all day. To a lot of people on the squad, that looked reckless. I was told I shouldn’t go into the woods by myself, because of every what-if anyone could come up with. My favorite was: what if a tree falls on you?

Why slow made sense

I want to be fair to the way things were. Rescue culture taught “walk, don’t run” for real reasons. A rescuer who shows up too winded to work, or rolls an ankle on the way in, becomes a second patient. Big teams and heavy systems, everything carried in and set up deliberately: that model is built for control, and control saves lives. The people who pulled me aside weren’t wrong to care about that.

What the mountains taught me

But I came to rescue from guiding, and in the mountains efficiency is safety. Less time exposed. More daylight. A patient who gets care sooner. None of that comes from hurrying. A guide moves at a pace they can hold all day, not out of breath, with enough left to think and to work on arrival. It just happens that for someone fit who moves well on steep ground, that pace is faster than most people would believe. The rest comes from running your systems so many times they get boring.

Rescue has a favorite saying: slow is smooth, smooth is fast. I’ve never liked it. I understand the idea. Slow down so you don’t make mistakes, and you’ll end up faster. But slow is slow. If you aren’t already efficient, slowing down doesn’t make you smooth. It just makes you slower than slow. Smooth comes from practice, not from slowing down, and efficiency is what’s actually fast.

Efficient isn’t reckless. Reckless is showing up winded and making mistakes. The dog on Ramsey Cliff came off the ledge because three people could climb, not because we brought shiny equipment. And the patient’s clock starts when they get hurt, not when we reach the trailhead.

That’s also why rescue is woven into how we run Pisgah Climbing School. The three of us who climbed on Ramsey Cliff were PCS guides. The skills that got that dog down, leading on gear, building anchors quickly, and running tandem rappels in the dark, are the same ones we teach all the time in our climbing and self-rescue courses. Guiding keeps those skills sharp in a way a few training nights a year can’t. Rescue keeps us honest about why we teach them.

How it changed

When I joined the Transylvania County Rescue Squad in 2007, the squad was full of good people who showed up for their community, and the culture fit the crew we had. A lot of us weren’t in the kind of shape that steep ground demands, so running to a patient wasn’t realistic, and the risk management followed: move slow, stay together, never go alone. If a call was somewhere the ATVs couldn’t reach, everyone understood it was going to take a long time.

Today I serve as the squad’s Technical Director of Mountain Rescue, and the roster looks different. We have members who run 50Ks on a regular basis. We have a newer e-MTB team, and everyone on it is a mountain biker. We have more guides on the squad than we’ve ever had. And our hasty teams are actually hasty. They get to patients fast.

None of that happened quickly. Early on, I got in trouble for saying that it takes ten years to make a rescuer a climber and two weeks to make a climber a rescuer. I’d say it more gently now, but I still believe it, and I’m not alone. I’ve had a rescue chief tell me he agrees. Rope systems can be taught fast. Experience and years of moving through steep terrain can’t. So we brought in people who already moved well in the mountains and trained them in rescue, and we kept doing it until it stopped being my way and became the team’s way.

That’s where rescue is heading. Not seventy-five people in the woods, but a small team that’s fit and technically sharp and gets there first. Four people got that dog off Ramsey Cliff. Big crews still matter for long carry-outs and wide searches. But the first people to reach someone should be the ones who can cover ground efficiently, arrive with something left, and solve the technical problem when they get there.

Large group of rescuers in helmets and headlamps carrying a litter through the woods at night in Western North Carolina.

It takes 20 years

This is my twentieth year on the Transylvania County Rescue Squad. I used to think a culture changed when you won the argument. It doesn’t. It changes when the people you trained start training other people, and the thing you once got in trouble for becomes the thing nobody notices.

That team didn’t jog to their patient because of me. They did it because it’s normal now. That’s the part that took twenty years, and it’s the best thing I’ve been a part of.

The squad and Pisgah Climbing School are different worlds, but leading them has turned out to look a lot alike. Teach people to move well in steep places. Practice until it’s boring. Then trust them to do it when it counts, whether that’s a client on a multi-pitch route, a teammate on a mutual aid call, or rappelling with a hunting dog 200 feet up.

What It Actually Means to Hire an IFMGA Mountain Guide (And Why It Matters in the Southeast)

IFMGA Mountain Guide, Karsten Delap short-roping on Mt Shuksan.

I've been asked some version of this question hundreds of times:

"What's the difference between a guide and a certified guide or Mountain Guide?"

It's a fair question. And honestly, the outdoor industry hasn't done a great job of answering it clearly. So let me just tell you straight — because the answer matters more than most people realize when they're choosing who to trust with their safety in the mountains.

The Credential Ladder Most People Don't Know Exists

In the United States, guide certifications are managed by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). The progression looks like this:

Single Pitch Instructor (SPI)— The entry-level standard for climbing instruction in the U.S. Covers top-rope and single-pitch settings. This is the minimum credential a professional climbing instructor should hold. It's a meaningful bar, and I've been training and examining SPI candidates for over 15 years.

Multi-Pitch Instructor (MPI) — Bridges the gap between single-pitch instruction and full guide certification. Covers leading clients on sustained multi-pitch routes, advanced anchor systems, rappelling, and managing teams in more committing terrain. A significant credential that relatively few instructors hold.

Certified Rock Guide — A significant step up. Covers multi-pitch trad climbing, anchor systems, leading in complex terrain, and client management on sustained routes. I completed the Rock Guide program in 2009, becoming the second person in the Southeast to earn this certification.

Certified Alpine Guide — Adds glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and alpine climbing in serious mountain environments. A whole different world from rock.

Certified Ski Guide— The third discipline in the full mountain guide pathway. Covers avalanche terrain management, ski mountaineering, and guiding clients in serious backcountry and alpine ski environments. Combined with the Rock and Alpine tracks, it forms the complete foundation required for the IFMGA certification.

IFMGA Mountain Guide — The top of the pyramid. The International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations credential is the gold standard worldwide. It combines all three disciplines — rock, alpine, and ski mountaineering — at the highest level of competency. In the spring of 2021, I became the **159th American** to complete the IFMGA certification.

In the entire Southeastern United States, I am the only IFMGA Mountain Guide.

What That Actually Takes

I'm not listing credentials to pat myself on the back. I'm listing them because when you're deciding who to hire for a guided climb — especially if you're new to the mountains — you deserve to understand what qualifies someone to do this job.

The IFMGA process is long. It took me years of coursework, assessments, and field evaluations. It covers everything from leading rock routes to ski mountaineering in serious alpine terrain to glacier rescue. Every component is rigorously examined by international assessors. There's no shortcut and no participation award.

To get a sense of the field: there are nearly 7,000 IFMGA guides worldwide — but the vast majority are concentrated in Europe, where the certification originated. In the United States, fewer than 200 guides have completed the full IFMGA certification. I am number 159.

It's a rare certification. It should be.

Why This Matters When You're Choosing a Guide in Western NC

Here's where I want to be direct with you.

There are good guide services in Western North Carolina. I'm not here to disparage anyone. But there are also services operating with guides who have minimal or no formal certification — and in some cases, no certification at all. In most states, including North Carolina, there is no legal requirement for a climbing guide to hold any specific credential. The market polices itself, which means the burden is on you as a client to ask the right questions.

When you hire a guide, you are trusting that person with your life in an environment where mistakes can be catastrophic. The right questions to ask any guide service:

- What certifications do your guides hold? SPI? MPI? These are the benchmarks that matter.

- Who is the senior guide overseeing your instruction program? What are their credentials — and are they actually in the field with clients, or just a name on the website?

- How experienced is the full team, not just the lead guide? A strong operation has depth. Every guide should be certified and actively working at a high level.

- How long have your guides been working in the Southeast specifically? Local knowledge of rock type, weather patterns, and specific routes matters enormously and can't be faked.

At Pisgah Climbing School, our guides hold AMGA certifications at multiple levels. Our instruction programs are overseen by the only IFMGA Mountain Guide in the region, with 20 years of professional guiding experience behind every program we run. We are the largest guide service in the Southeastern U.S., and we built that entirely on the quality of what we do.

What Clients Actually Experience Because of This

The difference between a good guide and a great one isn't visible until something goes sideways. That's when training, experience, and deep technical knowledge show up — or don't.

It's in how quickly a guide reads changing weather and adjusts the plan. It's in how a route is selected not just for difficulty but for the client's specific physical and mental state that day. It's in how a team moves through complex terrain efficiently, how anchors are built with both speed and redundancy, how risk is managed dynamically rather than by just a checklist.

I've guided in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, on Long's Peak, in the Tetons, in Patagonia, in the Indian Himalaya. I've done search and rescue on Looking Glass Rock and responded to incidents all over the Southeast. I currently serve as the Technical Director of the Mountain Rescue Team for the Transylvania County Rescue Squad and remain an active member of the Henderson County Rescue Squad. Several of our guides serve alongside me on these teams. That's not a marketing point. That's what it looks like when people take vertical terrain seriously enough to show up when it matters most.

I hold a SPRAT Level 3 certification — the highest level offered by the Society of Professional Rope Access Technicians — and several of our guides hold SPRAT certifications as well. Rope access is a completely different world from recreational climbing: it demands precision rigging in industrial and confined-space environments where there is zero margin for error. That discipline sharpens technical rope skills in ways that translate directly to how we build anchors, manage systems, and keep clients safe on the rock.

I've seen what happens when guides are underprepared, and I've seen what happens when they're not.

That experience is the foundation of every program at Pisgah Climbing School — from a first-timer's introduction to outdoor climbing all the way to our military training programs and multi-pitch expeditions.

The Southeast Has World-Class Climbing. It Deserves World-Class Guiding.

Western North Carolina and the Pisgah National Forest are genuinely remarkable. The granite domes of Looking Glass Rock, the intricate face climbing at Cedar Rock, the sustained routes of Linville Gorge — this is some of the finest rock climbing on the East Coast, and it deserves to be experienced with a team that can do it justice.

That's what we've built at Pisgah Climbing School. A team of passionate, certified, deeply experienced guides working out of Brevard, NC — doing things differently, on purpose, every single day.

If you're ready to get on the rock, we’d love to take you there.

Explore programs and book at pisgahclimbingschool.com → (https://pisgahclimbingschool.com)

Here is a client review on YouTube from a guest of ours:

Karsten Delap is the 159th American to earn the IFMGA Mountain Guide certification and the only IFMGA Guide in the Southeastern United States. He is the founder of Pisgah Climbing School — the largest guide service in the Southeast — and has been guiding and instructing for over 20 years across North America, South America, Africa, and the Himalayas. He is a licensed AMGA SPI Provider Trainer, a Petzl athlete ambassador, and a Wilderness Emergency Medical Technician.

From Climber to Instructor: Your Path Starts with the AMGA SPI

Most climbers remember the first time they tied in, the nerves at the base of the wall, and the rush of topping out. For many, that spark leads to more than just a hobby—it inspires a desire to share climbing with others. That’s where the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Course and Exam comes in.

Instructing at Pisgah Climbing School, I see this transformation every season. Climbers come to us with strong personal skills, but they’re ready to take the next step: learning how to teach, manage risk, and create safe and meaningful experiences for family members, friends, and other new climbers. The SPI program gives them that foundation.

Over the course of three immersive days, participants move beyond simply “providing a safe climbing experience.” They learn anchor systems, site management, and effective teaching techniques—skills that turn good climbers into great mentors. For those ready to prove their abilities, the two-day SPI Exam is the capstone, providing the chance to earn a certification that’s respected across the outdoor industry and leads to jobs in the guiding world.

What makes Pisgah Climbing School different? Our team. As the largest guide service in the Southeast—with the region’s only IFMGA Mountain Guide—we offer depth of experience you won’t find anywhere else. Our instructors know the technical systems inside and out, but they also know what it takes to guide in the real world.

Upcoming Dates

SPI Courses:

Looking Glass, NC Oct. 31st- Nov. 2nd $660

Cherokee Rock Village, Alabama Nov. 21-23rd $660

SPI Exam:

Looking Glass, NC Nov. 1st-2nd $475

Cherokee Rock Village, Alabama Nov. 22-23rd $475

If you’re ready to move from climber to instructor, this is your path forward. The rock is waiting—are you?

👉 Learn more and register: www.pisgahclimbingschool.com

The next chapter in guiding...

The Story Behind Pisgah Climbing School:

In 2020, I made one of the toughest decisions of my professional life: I left the company I had co-owned for seven years — and where I had spent the seven years prior as an employee. I walked away not just from a business, but from a big part of my identity. I left for a lot of reasons, but when the dust settled, I was left with one nagging question: Was I even good at this anymore? Not just guiding — but owning, managing, and growing a guide service.

As a kid, Michael Jordan was one of my biggest idols. I still remember him saying,

“I can accept failure. Everyone fails at something. But I can't accept not trying.”

That stuck with me.

So, I started over. I picked up a few guiding gigs, stayed humble, and decided to take another shot — this time on my own terms. I envisioned a small boutique guide service. One, maybe two employees. I would keep the bar high: top-tier instruction, unforgettable experiences, and a product I could genuinely stand behind. With full creative control, there would be no excuses and no shortcuts. The only thing that could measure success was whether or not it worked.Fast forward four years, and honestly? I still have to take a step back sometimes to believe where we are.

Despite facing our share of challenges — personal tragedy and unprecedented flooding, starting up during a pandemic — Pisgah Climbing School hasn’t just survived; it has flourished. We’ve built a team of guides who care deeply, hustle hard, and show up every single day to give people the kind of experience that changes how they see climbing, and maybe even themselves.

The growth has been so explosive that some thought we must be playing dirty. But here’s the truth: We just focus on our company and do things differently. Every detail, every trip, every client interaction is intentional. It’s a culture of excellence, and it shows. Today, Pisgah Climbing School is the largest climbing guide service in the Southeastern U.S. — and likely the largest on the East Coast by nearly every measure. But what really matters isn’t the numbers. It’s the stories, the smiles, the people who trust us with their first pitch or their next big goal in the mountains. One recent YouTube review captured it perfectly — the way our team went above and beyond for a family's adventure.

Client review of Pisgah Climbing School

It’s always rewarding to know people feel the effort we put into every single experience.

I’m beyond grateful for where PCS is now and even more excited for where it’s going. We’re here to help climbers of all levels explore the mountains with confidence, curiosity, and joy — and we’ve only just begun.

Fall 2024 AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Courses and Assesment

AMGA SPI Assessment October 19-20

AMGA SPI Course October 25-27

Click links above to book!

The AMGA SPI course and exam are the standard for climbing instruction in the United States. These courses are taught by IFMGA Mountain Guide, Karsten Delap; who has been a provider of these programs for 15 years.

Ice Climbing in North Conway, NH: Unveiling the Best Winter Adventure

Ice Climbing on Pinnacle Gully, Mount Washington

Thinking about ice climbing this winter? Keep reading to find out why North Conway is the ultimate destination for ice climbing enthusiasts, offering a perfect blend of world-class climbs, accessibility, and stunning winter landscapes.

1.     Premier Ice Climbing in North Conway, NH:

With some of the country's best ice formations, this winter wonderland caters to climbers of all skill levels, promising a truly unique and exhilarating experience.

2.     Short Hikes, More Climbing:

Maximize your climbing time in North Conway with short hikes to classic lines. This proximity ensures less walking and more climbing, a crucial advantage during the shorter winter days. Make the most of your time on the ice and experience the thrill without all the work.

3.     Quality Over Quantity:

North Conway sets itself apart by offering a wealth of high-quality climbs. From beginner-friendly single pitches to challenging multi-pitch routes, each climb is exceptional. Classics like Repentance and Remission, along with alpine routes like Pinnacle Gully, provide a lifetime of memorable experiences.

4.     Accessible for All Skill Levels:

Regardless of your climbing experience, North Conway welcomes climbers of all skill levels. The diverse terrain caters to beginners seeking a learning ground and seasoned climbers looking for iconic challenges. It's an inclusive destination where everyone can find their perfect climb.

 5.     Winter Wonderland Beyond Climbing:

North Conway's enchanting winter landscape, adorned with snow-covered peaks, enhances the overall ice climbing experience. Immerse yourself in the beauty of New England's winter as you conquer the ice-covered cliffs.

6.     Ice Climbing Instruction for Skill Enhancement:

Elevate your ice climbing skills with expert instruction in North Conway. Book with Pisgah Climbing School to learn efficient movement techniques and safety protocols from experienced guides. Progress to confidently lead climbs while responsibly managing inherent hazards.

 Book Your Adventure Now!

Plan your ice climbing adventure with Pisgah Climbing School in North Conway, NH, this January and February. Beyond the thrill of climbing, immerse yourself in the natural beauty of winter in New England. Join the ranks of climbers who have embraced North Conway as the ultimate destination for a memorable and fulfilling ice climbing adventure.

Free Soloing (why you have to do it to be a climber)

Free soloing gets a bad rap in many parts of our world, but it is mostly misunderstood. The definition of free soloing according to Merriam-Webster is: a climb in which a climber uses no artificial aids for support and has no rope or other safety equipment for protection in case of a fall.It is important here to note that there is no grade associated with it. So class II scrambling without a rope and protection is technically free soloing.

Somewhere in Scotland.

If you ask most climbers if they do or would free solo, most will say no; or maybe “hell no”, “never”, “that is dangerous”. What they have not pondered and should be asking themselves is how do they get to the first piece of protection then? Sure you can stick clip on a sport route, but what about a trad route? There are routes in North Carolina that you have to free solo the first pitch. Here is the route: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105965582/original-route-aka-gom-jabber They will say you can get a couple pieces of gear, which is true. They are in loose rock that will never hold. So we start to manage our risk by placing gear when we feel it is necessary based on our own movement ability and risk acceptance.

This brings me to my biggest point of free soloing. Many climbers climb with a rope and do not realize they have no way of being “caught” by their partner and the rope before hitting the ground. They are free soloing! They have a rope on, they have gear in, but it is either too far below them or worthless and will never hold. This is exactly what happens on the route mentioned above.

Speed is a necessity on bigger routes and in alpine terrain. Climbers “scramble” pitches on big routes all the time and never would say they are free soloing. A good example is accessing the Diamond on Long’s Peak. The North Chimney is commonly soloed and the parties that rope up can be slow and create more rock fall if not very diligent with rope management. This is so common that Mountain Project actually recommends to “consider soloing when possible”.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/112009323/north-chimney

Many ice climbers solo as leading ice is mostly a no fall sport. Photo: Austin Schmitz

So I’m not really trying to get climbers to “start” free soloing. But what I’m saying is that you probably already are! I also don’t believe you have to free solo to be a climber. Hell, I don’t even think you have to lead to be a climber! But I do think some care should be taken into truly understanding the activity you are engaging in.

Here is a video that Jason Schmaltz of Atlanta Rock Climbing School put together last year:

There is risk and reward in everything. One must choose their own path...

2023 AMGA Single Pitch Instructor / Climbing Wall Instructor Course and Exam offerings

AMGA Single Pitch Instructor

AMGA SPI Courses:

Feb 10th-12th Big Rock, SC

Register here: Pisgah Climbing School

April 14th-16th Marquette, MI

Register here: Michigan Ice Fest

April 3rd-5th Camp Carolina, Brevard, NC

Register here: Pisgah Climbing School

May 26th-28th Crowders Mountain, NC

Register here: Whitewater Center

Aug 11th-13th Red River Gorge, KY

Register here: Pisgah Climbing School

Sept 1st-3rd Crowders Mountain, NC

Register here: Whitewater Center

AMGA SPI ASSESSMEnts:

April 17th-18th Marquette, MI

Register here: Michigan Ice Fest

Sept 4th-5th Crowders Mountain, NC

Register here: Whitewater Center

AMGA CLimbing wall Instructor

AMGA CWI COURses:

March 10th-12th Charlotte Whitewater Center, NC

Register here: Whitewater Center

Aug 18th-20th Whitewater Center Charlotte, NC

Register here: Whitewater Center

2022 American Mountain Guides Association SPI (Single Pitch Instructor ) Course Schedule

2022 American Mountain Guides Association SPI (Single Pitch Instructor ) Program Schedule

Click on course to apply:

February 25th-27th SPI Course Brevard, NC (full)

April 14-15 SPI Assessment Brevard, NC (full)

May 4th-6th SPI Course Brevard, NC (1 spot left)

May 30th-Jun 1st SPI course Marquette, MI

June 2nd-3rd SPI Assessment Marquette, MI

June 13-15th SPI Course Brevard, NC

AMGA SPI Course Schedule Fall 2021

North Carolina AMGA Single Pitch instructor Courses:

October 15-17th Register here

Michigan AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Courses:

September 15-17th Register Here

Michigan AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Assessments:

September 18-19th Register Here

The American Mountain Guides Single Pitch Instructor program is the minimum standard for climbing instruction in the United States. The course teaches many skills on how to facilitate individuals and groups in a single pitch climbing setting. There is a heavy focus on teaching and client care as well as topics like Leave No Trace. It is recommended that students take time to practice between the course and assessment. This time will very based on each students needs and access to practice the skills learned.