Top of Sitting Bear
The Linville Crusher is a fairly sought after objective in the Southeastern United States for climbers that like to go big in the mountains and see what they are made of. It consists of climbing a route on every formation on the East side of the Linville Gorge from Sitting Bear to Shortoff in what ends up being about 16 miles of hiking with 19 pitches of climbing.
The inception came about when Jay Young and Kris Versteegen did the objective in 1999. However more notably pro-climber Pat Goodman started doing bigger link ups and objectives to train and keep in shape for his adventures abroad. While only completing the full “crusher” a couple times and usually without a rope, or a partner, or a car shuttle (sometimes no water and just bumming it), and of course when there was no Strava or social media posting in general, he doesn’t know his times and had to get back to his vehicle. From what he remembers he did this in 12 hours, oh and I forgot to mention he usually choose harder routes up to 5.11. So really we are all still chasing Pat…
The now Crusher is a bit more defined with most parties starting at the Sitting Bear trailhead and finishing with a car drop at the Shortoff trailhead. First timers usually do drops at Table Rock parking lot but the purists will do it self supported. The routes most choose are the easier options; here are the ones I do:
Sitting Bear: Original Route 5.9
Hawksbill: Lost in Space 5.10
Table Rock: North Ridge 5.5
North Carolina Wall: Bumble Bee Buttress 5.8
Amphitheater: I go down the Prow 5.4 then climb out the Daddy 5.6
Shortoff Mountain: Maginot Line 5.7
Water seems to be a main issue and why many do drops. I usually will start with 2.5 liters and get a little off a drip at the NC wall right as you get to the bottom of the wall and start traversing to Bumble Bee. It takes a minute here to fill so I only get .5 liters. You can usually get some more water going down the Amphitheater Gully, but since I down climb the Prow I don’t usually get any here. The next spot is at the “pipe” at Shortoff. This comes from a spring (I still filter) and I get a liter to finish. This is not enough water to be comfortable for most people so do keep that in mind you might want more.
Some of the beta:
Start out wearing harness with .75 cam 4 draws one locker and shoes clipped to it.
On the way to Sitting Bear, drop packs right after the nice pine campsite.
Lower off the climb and steal your partners grigri for the TR belay.
For Hawksbill leave packs right after climbers turn off. I lead the first pitch of LIS and belay. Then take it to the top from here.
Going up to Table Rock is a bit grueling but you are just getting warmed up. We simul to the end of the real climbing on the North Ridge of Table Rock and then my partner passes. Hopefully the rope is put up by this point and there is no real transition. We do this in the approach shoes.
Many of the anchor I use are more “alpine style”. Here is the anchor on the top of the climbing on the North Ridge.
Running down to NC wall takes time. If you stop for water, more time. Then this can also be the climb that shuts you down for wet weather. On my last attempt I had to pitch this out as it was very slick. I typically will do this in two pitches by simuling. Stopping only at the big ledge.
The Belay on the big ledge. I just use a single piece for the anchor and it is a sling shot belay. If it were to fail the rock buttress would become a terrain belay.
Once at the top of this you move to the top of the Prow. Stay near the rim for this. We down solo the prow or when guiding it I short rope and lower my clients down it. Going down the Prow definitely adds the big mountain traverse feeling to this climb as well as saves time.
The Daddy is done in two pitches. To the big ledge for one (this is top of pitch three). I belay here with a terrain belay off the big rocks. Then take it to the top.
Now get ready for some endurance running. First you have to get back to the MST trail which is grueling up hill. Then over to Shortoff which starts as a down. Once you start back up you are only about a quarter of the way there. Many parties will start to feel the fatigue here.
Once at the Shortoff gully I grab some water and then leave packs at the top. I usually will carry a Starbucks Double shot to the bottom to chug before climbing, smash the can and put it in my pocket. I do climb Maginot Line in climbing shoes at this point. I do Maginot in two pitches only simuling the last pitch as a 48m rope just reaches the first belay.
Once at the top, grab the packs and race to the Shortoff parking lot!
The rack for the crusher!
This is the rack that I use and is now updated with all the Z4 BD cams.
Since I am leading all the pitches I don’t carry a Grigri.
My partners rack will consist of:
1 GriGri
2 Lockers
1 prussik
1 double shoulder length sling
1 non-locker to stow gear
This should be sufficient to do a rescue.
At this point (Oct 2023) I have completed the Crusher 9 times, three of which were guided.
My times were:
First time: 10:37 it was September and almost 90
Second: 11:35 late September and 93 degrees
Third: 17:30 Guided
Fourth: 9:18 late November
Fifth: 16:02 Guided
Sixth: 8:49 Bumble Bee Butress was soaked.
Seventh: 6:49 April ‘23 Bumble Bee was closed for birds so we skipped it.
Eighth: 6:09:17 Sept 19th ‘23 FKT at the time with Zack Mintz
Ninth: 8:50 Sept 31st ‘23 Guided (Fastest Guided Time)
If you would like to be guided on the crusher please inquire here: Pisgah Climbing School