Climbing the Midi-Plan Traverse

My partner was sick yesterday so I went out on a solo mission and wanted to see some new terrain. Not knowing exactly what I was going to get into I packed my Deuter Speed Lite 20 and took off for the Aiguille du Midi.

Looking at the tinny point, Aiguille du Plan

After leaving the Midi I could see the Aiguille du Plan and it seemed the obvious choice for an outing but I knew nothing about the route. In my Speed Lite 20 pack I brought a 7.5mm tag line if I needed to rappel, a half liter of water, one GU, my Petzl Altitude harness, my Reverso, Sarken crampons, a sling and locking carabiner, and my La Sportiva Hail Jacket. So I was definitely going light but had options.

The Snow climbing was amazing as it follows a few knife edge ridges with views

out of the many glaciers of the area as well as the valley of Chamonix. The rock climbing was also spectacular. With know information of the route and how hard it was I decided not to do any rappelling and instead just down climb. This would allow me to know that I could feel comfortable climbing back up the terrain in my crampons. The hardest moves were 5.5 or maybe 5.6 (YDS) and the splitter cracks made the climbing fun and secure. The traverse ends on the top of the Plan in which you stand on a refrigerator sized block. Absolutely spectacular. Of course you have to retrace your steps but in this case I was looking forward to it because you get to experience it all again!

Days out in the mountains like this is what it is all about. Freedom, movement, great views, and no rules. Just you and the mountains!

Here is another write up on the route by Cosley and Houston:

http://www.cosleyhouston.com/midi-plan.htm

Why Do You Climb?

Why do we climb?

“Because it is there.” This is the obligatory first line and the historical answer to this question that George Mallory so kindly provided us with in 1943. While this reason could be reason enough for most involved in the sport, I think many of us that have been climbing for over a decade and logged thousands of miles on stone, ice and snow, it is a much more in depth question.

I was just in a private conversation on Facebook with a few climbers talking about ethics (never a good subject), and it dawned on me that even these dedicated, weekend warriors might have trouble seeing why other people climb due to the activity itself being such a personal and selfish endeavor. A few of the comments made were:

 “Trad climbing should be dangerous, isn’t that the allure?”

“Guides motivations are different than everyone else’s, money.”

This got me thinking about a time I had an epiphany that not everyone climbs for the same reasons. I had a friend that came up to me and asked if he could borrow a couple old ice screws. I obliged but asked who he was climbing with and he answered, “no one.”  I said ok thinking he was top roping and handed him a couple of screws. He asked for a couple more so that he could protect the pitch better. I immediately said “Wait, your leading? You have never even climbed ice! That is crazy!” He replied, “I know, I like being in that situation, you know; where you just have to figure it out.”

I also just spent some time in the desert with good friends that come from many different cultures and motivations to climb. One of them stated that he was really burnt out on climbing, but the people he was with had motivated him to be where he was and that he really just enjoyed the atmosphere. This was evident in the way he would walk to the crag and every so often turn around, stop and stare and the magnificent canyon views.

So, why do I climb?

I climb because the coffee tastes better the further from Starbucks I get. My friends inspire me to go harder with the psyche they bring. The stories are longer, deeper, and told in tight places where you could not leave in the boring parts if you tried. The cultures that I get invited into and the new friends I meet in these far off places. Life therapy. Exercise, fear, relaxation, adventure. To be alive.

I do guide because it pays the bills and perpetuates the obvious, to continue to guide. The real reason though, I get to introduce folks to the outdoors, and share all of the reasons I climb, as well as watch my students go on self supported adventures of there own and feel what it is like to be alive!

Ground Up Bolting

Ground up bolting has been long thought to be the “Leave No Trace” way of bolting, and making the most ethical sense. As climbing continues to grow we are needing to think about our impacts to areas and also how we can accommodate more climbers at the crag.

When climbs are bolted from the ground up, great adventure is had by the individuals opening the new ground. They sometimes are not sure if the route goes, bolts get placed where convenient, holes are not very round leaving spinning hangars and in some cases one has to place bolts to pull on or aid to move forward. While this provides the first ascentionists with wonderful stories that the will be told for a lifetime, it does not make the climbs as well thought out and crags well developed for many users and could be thought of anymore, as selfish.

When we develop from the top down we get to hang on a rope, figure out moves, find the clipping stances, making sure the route goes and does not need to veer off into some unaesthetic or annoying traverse that seems out of place to the rest of the climbing.  We also get good holes and can place glue-in bolts that can last for hundreds of years. With top down we can plan out the crag and make sure routes make sense and of they don’t, we don’t put them up.

Now I am not saying we should do this everywhere. For alpine, big mountain areas, wilderness settings, this doesn’t make a ton of sense. However areas we can get to the top, are heavily used, and with-out reasonable natural gear it seems like a worthwhile conversation to have. As we move forward with climbing we need to start thinking about its future and how others will enjoy this great outdoor activity.

“The Legacy”, after adding the bolts.

I put a route up on Looking Glass last fall. It was done by head-pointing and I did not put any hardware in the rock that day. The crux comes 35 ft. off a ledge with no gear below you. You are soloing 5.10+, before you get gear. I had a great adventure with this route but immediately realized it would never get repeated.

After confirming it was a first ascent, asking the greater community if bolts would be appropriate as well as anchors, I went back and put hardware in. It is a route I hope people will climb, and if they wish to have the adventure I had they should feel free to climb past the bolts and not clip them if they are against bolts put in hanging. I have clipped them every time I have lead it since. We measured the top anchors precisely so that now you can get off the Southside of Looking Glass with a single rope benefiting climbers to not have to drag rope across other parties as they climb adjacent routes as well as preventing the bi-weekly epic of “we didn’t know we needed two ropes”.

On the first ascent, with no gear…

Climbing is growing tenfold, we can try to stop it, or we can embrace it and provide well thought out venues that allow users to progress through grades, have adventures and enjoy the out of doors just as we have and leave them with our legacy.

The Legacy

the first ascent, with no gear…

2016 Ice Fest Tour

I just ended my ice fest tour for the year. I was able to attend and teach clinics at the Ouray Ice Festival, Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival, and the Michigan Ice Festival. All have there unique qualities and different styles, vibes, and even the ice feels different in all three areas. Here are some of the cool parts of each and recommendations for those thinking of going.

Photo credit: Jeff Rueppel

Ouray Ice Fest was held January 14th – 17th and most activities take place within walking distance of the center of Ouray. This fest hosts many clinics, gear demos, and slide shows from some of the top alpinists and ice climbers in the world. With Ouray’s mild temperatures (15-35°F) clinics are warm, ice is soft and the days events are all outside. Most of the clinics are held in the Ouray Ice Park which offers some of the best ice in the country due to the ice farmers spraying it every night. Some clinics are held in the “back-country” which is mostly done on Camp Bird Mine Rd, only a few minutes drive. The fest has events every night ranging from slideshows to dance parties and many groups opt to head to the hot springs for dip in the natural pools. The mixed climbing and speed competitions, where you can see the worlds top climbers pushing their limits, is also not to be missed. With the event being in such a small town a car is not really needed and parking is at a minimum so many choose to carpool and then be on foot for the weekend. If you are into back country skiing there is great tours available right outside of town on Red Mountain Pass.

The Mount Washington Valley Ice fest was held Feb 5th-7th this year. While this fest is smaller than the other two I attended it provides some of the best natural ice climbing venues in the U.S.

Photo Credit: Evan Kay

Hosted by IMCS and IME in North Conway, NH; many vendors show up with tons of gear to demo, while local guides and athletes take participants out on the varied ice around the valley to explore and climb. Just as the weather on Mount Washington is varied this fest can have temperature ranges from 0-45°F. This year proved to be on the warmer side, still with plenty of options for ice climbing. This is a fest to have a vehicle as the ice is more spread out and the nightly events happen at the Theater in the Woods, a few miles from the mornings activities. With the rich climbing history of New England this is an event not to miss.

Photo Credit: Jeff Witt

The final ice fest I attended was the Michigan Ice Fest on the 10th-14th of February. Yes, you read that right, Michigan. The Midwest has a hidden gem here that over 700 folks drive from hours away to participate in the festivities and of course climb some ice. The entire town of Munising comes together to help put this (the oldest ice fest) on. The event is mostly held at the American Legion with free shuttles to the slide shows at the elementary school as well taking you back to the local hotels. The clinics are mostly held right off Sandpoint road with options to do back country clinics with fairly long approaches. The ice is not all that tall but does pack a punch as it is mostly pillars falling over the sandstone cliffs over looking Lake Superior. This region is some of the coldest temps I have ever climbed in so definitely bring your puffy and an extra set of long underwear. Many companies show up to demo gear and Bill from Downwind Sports has many great deals for purchasing new. When you are there be sure to try the local cuisine and grab a pastie at the American Legion.

Hope to see you all at one of these fantastic venues next year!

I would like to thank all my sponsors for supporting me in getting to these events. Without them it wouldn’t be possible.

LaSportiva

Ibex Outdoor Clothing

BlueWater Ropes

Julbo

Deuter

Petzl

Deuter Guide Lite 32 Review

With summer season in full swing here at Fox Mountain Guides we are putting gear to the test. One piece of gear that our guides use daily is the Deuter Guide Lite 32+. This pack is a lighter version of the guide series packs due to the ripstop nylon and Duratex Lite fabrics that are used. This makes it a great pack to save weight for bigger climbs as well as keep your knees healthy all season long.

I have personally put the pack to the test this season on the rock as well as skiing some volcanoes in the Northwest. The pack has held up exceptionally well and seems to find a way to excel in in every environment. When skiing it stows the skis well for the steep couloir climb while providing enough room for crampons, skins, and a place to attach your axe, keeping a slim profile for the deep, tight powder turns through the trees.

On the rock the pack carries well with an entire rack, rope, first aid kit, and all the other essentials one would need for a long day out. The pack has a 32 liter carrying capacity with 8 more liters when expanded. If you need to add even more room you can use the helmet holder (sold separately) that attaches via sewn loops. The pack also cinches down enough to use as a multi-pitch pack especially if you stuff the lid in side and pull the drawstrings tight. The waist belt has great gear loops that I tend to use for rock protection while keeping slings and belay devices on my harness loops. It works well with Deuter’s Streamer hydration system, a must here in the Southeast.

The over all fit of the pack is good for medium to longer torso folks but if you are shorter you might want to look at getting the Guide Lite 28 SL. This pack is great for skiing, climbing, and general mountain adventures and with the bright colors they will make you look good out there too!

This is a repost from outdoor prolink: http://dirtbagdreams.com/2015/08/14/proview-deuter-guide-lite-32/

Sliding on Volcanos

As I delve into my final AMGA discipline, I am finding the beauty of carrying boards to the top of the mountains, the descent! It is some feeling when you get to the top of peaks and know you only have a few hours and you will be back at the car when all the other climbers have a knee banging descent. But it is also about experiencing the alpine environment in a different way. Sliding across endless fields of glaciers, taking routes because they present a steeper slope, managing terrain that I would typically brush off and sliding over cracks I would typically want a rope on. Experiencing the “flow” of the mountain with every turn and yearning for just another thousand feed of corn snow, I found myself looking back up the mountain and saying, “What a great experience, look at that line, I can’t wait to come back!”.

Learn about mountaineering and alpine climbing this winter in New Hampshire’s White Mountains. http://www.foxmountainguides.com/mountaineering/mountaineering-courses/mountaineering-101

Ice Climbing Looking Glass Falls

The climb that I did [Saturday, Feb. 21], was Looking Glass Falls, one of the classic falls of the Pisgah National Forest with many visitors every year. I pass the falls frequently, as most of the climbing guiding and instruction I do is on Looking Glass Rock, so I am always yearning to climb it.

Rarely do we have temperatures like we have had in the last week that enable waterfalls with as much flow volume as Looking Glass to freeze. We have had some of these temps in the past few years but, due to the nature of my job and traveling to far off places, I wasn’t able to catch the falls “in shape.” Feb. 21 wasn’t perfect either: the ice pillar at the beginning wasn’t touching the ground, the ice was very chandeliered and somewhat sun-baked from the day before. With the rain and warmer temps forecasted for later that day and into the night, I had to give it a go, as it would be gone by morning.

So Travis Weil and I decided to give it a shot. The first few moves off the ground, we climbed by using the rock behind the ice until I could gain the pillar. This is known as mixed climbing. Once I got a good pick placement into the pillar, I knew I would be going to the top, as there likely would be know way to retreat. After only a few moves of rock, I committed.

The pillar felt good, but I couldn’t really swing into it because I knew it wouldn’t take much of a beating for it to fall off. I wrapped my feet around the ice pillar, as I couldn’t kick for the same reasons. This put most of the weight on my arms, and I had to make sure my picks were in solid placements so as to not rip through the less-than-ideal chandeliered ice.

Once I got over the pillar, I tried to place an ice screw, but all the ice was either to thin or not solid enough. I went ahead and placed a really bad screw and moved on like it would hold if I fell.

When the strenuous climbing was over and I was able to put more weight on my feet, the quality of ice was less good and made of what we call “snice” — a snow and ice mixture that’s very aerated and doesn’t give great purchase with the ice tools. The snice was made from the spray from the falls. I moved through this section delicately and with precision, making sure that if a tool or foot would give way I would have plenty of holding power with the others.

I made my way past the vertical section and onto the sloping and lower-angled ice at the top. Adrenaline started to overwhelm me, as it does many times at the top of climbs that I have longed to do. I knew I had to keep this at bay and stay focused on the climb until I was clipped to the anchor and safe. I rearranged protection (three really bad ice screws) at the top to prevent a swing if Travis fell and clipped myself to the largest tree I could find!

A loud “Whoop!” definitely came out as the hazards faded and the pinnacle achievement was accomplished.

This climb pushed the line on the margins of safety that I usually keep. I was able to see the possibility of climbing the line from the ground. I knew I had the reserves of skill and strength from many years in the mountains and the training I had been doing in the previous months to deal with the given situations and cruxes that I would face. I was not cheated. The climb made me focus physically and mentally until the last step onto the frozen moss at the top. Like the perfect wave for the surfer, this climb was something climbers dream for.

Ski Strap Skins

Ski straps have many uses. Today I found out a new one. As Lindsay, Buster and I got to the top of Red Mountain Pass and started getting our gear ready I heard some choice words coming from the back of the truck. Lindsay who was so psyched to use her brand new skis had just realized that she had forgotten her skins. It was a long ride back to Ouray and with out missing a beat Buster looked at me and asked how many ski straps I had. After digging around the truck we found six. We put the straps on the skis and were off to earn our turns.

Lindsay Fixmer with “ski strap” skins.

A few things we learned.

Keep the straps under foot when possible.

If you have long straps, go around twice.

Keep the tails to the outside.

And just don’t forget your skins!

Life, on the road, in my house...

cab truck with a Four Wheel camper. The Subaru was great, but eventually you kinda want a bed. I was spending 50 to 80 nights a year in my car and was doing this in every season as well as needed off road capabilities for those long approach desert rock climbs. I had a look around for what the best options were, Sprinters, Sportsmobiles and truck campers and came to the conclusion that 4 wheel drive is a must and it had to be an everyday driver.

What fit the bill, the Four Wheel camper on a Double Cab, Long Bed Toyota Tacoma. The camper weighs in at just over 500 lbs and with an extra leaf spring the truck stays pretty level even with another 500 lbs of gear. You can sleep incognito in the Walmart parking lot with the roof down or pop it up for a fairly luxurious night by mountain guide standards.

On the interior I went with a fairly stripped down model due to the conditions that I would be using the camper in. The furnace was the main add and coupled with the thermal package which really helps on cold nights. I have slept in -30ºF and stayed plenty warm. The thermal package also helps the camper stay more cool in the daytime.

When carrying bikes the Yakima Swingdaddy 4 is the way to go. It swings out to allow access to the camper and carries your bike and a few buddies bikes.

The off road performance has been fairly exceptional. The camper hangs on and I have only had a few problems with brackets breaking when I take something a little fast. These are easily replaced and I just keep a few on hand.

The Tacoma is pretty comfortable for drives across the country. The double cab makes it easy for 4 to be transported and plenty of room for extra luggage for 2 or less. I have an Ipad mounted right above the gear shift for easy access to music, navigation and those mountain weather reports.

Life on the road can be pretty fun, and a nice rig makes it all the better!

La Sportiva Swing Sandal Review

The perfect summer approach shoe

I just got done testing out one of the best summer approach shoes I have ever worn. The La Sportiva Swing offers exceptional comfort. Your feet feel free in them, and the leather is placed perfectly to allow maximum breath-ability. This helps keep the odor down and also helps keep your feet dry, which is important since they are not GoreTex. The bottoms have FriXion rubber, which the website says is “for everything.” I couldn’t agree more: they hook up on the sandy, muddy, and rocky approaches and still handle smears on the overhanging rock. They have a great ergonomic toe box that helps as much with performance as it does with the shoe’s fashion. I will say the heel slides around a bit especially when trying to heel hook, but over all you can’t beat these shoes for the price to weight ratio. Grab a pair and get sending this summer!

Winter review of the Swing to come…